Within this series of articles I have been covering the beginning
work relative to raising a competitive working dog. The goal of our foundation
work is to raise a dog that is strong and confident, active in his drives
and highly motivated.
Many people have asked for articles explaining the retrieve exercises and how to teach them. The retrieve is an extremely complex set of separate behaviors performed consecutively by the dog and in a specific manner in order to achieve full points. To try and explain, even in general terms, the process of teaching these behaviors in the written word is daunting to say the least. Add to that the many subtleties required by the handler to teach the retrieve properly; the numerous variables between dogs and their responses to such teaching; and the sometimes sensitive nature of a process labeled forced. But, perhaps this is an excellent time and place to clear up misconceptions about teaching the retrieve. There can be no doubt that without very good to excellent retrieves, success in the sport of Schutzhund will be difficult to achieve.
Although there are multitudes of ways to teach the retrieve, all methods generally fall under the large and somewhat misleading headings of "Forced" and "Drive Based" retrieves. The definitions, methods, interpretations stated are based on correct training and correct results. Correct training achieves correct results. Correct results are defined as full points.
Drive Based Retrieve Overview
The drive based retrieve is a fairly new method of teaching retrieves. The first misconception is that a drive based retrieve is 100% positive with no correction or compulsion, an absolutely false statement. All dog training is based on compulsion, overt or subtle and all that is in between. The very definition of training implies compulsion in one form or another and is a synonym for discipline. There is no room in competitive dog sport for Fluffy didn't feel like it today. The very attitude of allowing the dog to pick and choose the behaviors they wish to perform is more detrimental to a dog's psyche than clear, fair, appropriate training. Innate canine pack behavior does not allow for maybe or not today. You follow pack rules or you're disciplined. You work hard for your food or you die.
The drive based retrieve does not deviate from the inherent compulsion required of all training. It is a method, however, that requires a dog's genetic tendencies to be absolutely in line with the exercise requirements. It is a method that requires a dog be molded, brought up, shaped in a specific way with a specific goal. It is a method that requires the handler to be fully aware of their dog's emotional responses and communicate effectively.
Obviously it is not for every dog or every handler. It can be correct to say that teaching the retrieve successfully is difficult for most all novice handlers, regardless of method. Training is difficult for novice, first time handlers because they have no idea where they are going, should be going, what the general outline is for teaching the required exercises let alone how to teach those exercises and when. If you don't know where you're headed, let alone the road to follow, it can be very difficult to make the journey in one piece. The drive based retrieve is no different. For full points using this method, training starts when the dog is 8 weeks old. Yes I said WEEKS. Occasionally one finds an older dog that has two thirds of the required pieces and can be taught the missing piece with little overt compulsion, but these dogs are not common.
What are the required pieces for the retrieve exercise? The dog must sit calmly in basic position while the dumbbell is thrown. On command the dog immediately, directly and as fast as possible goes to the dumbbell. The dog picks the dumbbell up cleanly and quickly, meaning without running by it, over it or moving it with their feet. The dog then returns immediately, directly and as fast as possible to the handler. The dog shows correct front position while holding the dumbbell firmly and calmly until instructed to release. The same process and requirements are repeated with the addition of the two hurdles.
At 8 weeks old we begin the road to that end result by introducing the dumbbell, molding and shaping the retrieve behaviors without exception and teaching our young friend that "yes" or something similar is a positive marker, and "no" or something similar is a negative marker. Although negative, "no" more correctly translates to "oops." If from his youngest days a dog learns that "no" means he has a choice, he will learn to problem solve. If a dog problem solves, when corrected they will be less likely to internalize the correction. Internalizing corrections is frequently the underlying issue for all low scoring retrieves. However in order for positive/negative markers to work, exercises must be broken down to their smallest possible components. Teaching each component one at a time, deliberately and with great forethought, before trying to string the components together into more finished exercises. By breaking them down to their smallest possible component you also minimize the use of a negative marker.
If we did not begin at 8 weeks we would most likely have to undo other learned behaviors. Perhaps the dog doesn't bring his toys directly back to the handler. Perhaps the dog likes to chew and mouth his toys. Perhaps the dog likes to roll his toys with his feet when running after them. A dog can possibly do all these things at 8 weeks and be shaped for positive retrieve behaviors by 6 months. But a dog that does all these things at 6 months may or may not be shaped for positive retrieve behaviors by one year. It takes less time and effort to teach a behavior correctly then to change a behavior later on. It takes more compulsion to undo a taught behavior, and thus it generally makes more sense to teach a forced retrieve when working with an older dog. But again there are dogs that have perhaps two thirds of the retrieve requirements and need only one piece cleaned up. It is possible for such a dog to be taught in a modified manner that one piece, as opposed to throwing out all the behaviors and starting from scratch with a forced retrieve. It is not necessary to only go one way or the other. Training is based on the dog and desired end result, not on a specific method.
The drive based retrieve receives that title because it is taught based on the dog's inherent drives. Prey drive to be exact. The higher level of prey drive a dog has, the easier to teach the dog using that drive. A dog inherits perhaps 80% of their prey drive; the other 20% is developed by the handler. The quality of a dog's prey drive rests more with their development then their genetics. There is hectic, unthinking, frenzied prey drive and then there is prey drive that is contained, directed, finessed. Think of prey drive as a river. Hectic prey drive is like a river full of rapids, a river that shifts its banks during the course of its life. It is uncontrolled, uncontrollable and frequently unpredictable. Directed prey drive is like a river that has been enclosed by intentional construction. It is a river that now has man made fixed banks, is smooth flowing throughout its course and for our purposes has a working value to it. Thus directed prey drive becomes a concentrated, powerful energy source. And that energy fuels the retrieve vehicle. Learning how to control and direct that prey drive is the essential foundation of a drive based retrieve.
Forced Retrieve Overview
The forced retrieve has an unnecessary reputation. The level of compulsion is determined by the dog's drives, current behaviors, temperament, and response to corrections. It is my opinion that the same aspects of the handler need to be taken into consideration as well. The forced retrieve teaches a dog what they must do, how they must do it and the reward for doing it. The forced retrieve is very linear, very black and white. There is no "sometimes" or "maybe. When taught properly it is very clear to the dog what his job is and how to accomplish it. This clear understanding taps into the fundamental part of our working dogs they want to work, they want clear instruction, and they want to know the benefits or consequences of their behavior.
Prior to the 20th century most hunting dogs were broken down by flushers, pointers and retrievers. The retrievers were broken down again by those that worked on land or water. All the breeds were developed off their instinctive behaviors and did not begin as distinct breeds, but became distinct breeds. Hunting dogs were owned by very wealthy people who could afford to have multiple dogs for multiple purposes. Moving into the mid 20th century, hunting became more egalitarian and the different breeds were developed to be more generalized workers then their forebears. This meant the pointers were now also being asked to retrieve as were the flushing type breeds. Having been developed for work that did not emphasis bringing birds back to the handler, these dogs now needed to be trained to do just that, and they needed to be reliable. This is likely when the forced retrieve was developed.
There are three primary methods of teaching a forced retrieve: ear pinch; toe pinch; and two way pull. The dog's innate response to a strong or painful stimulus is to open their mouth. This is the foundation of a forced retrieve.
Negative stimulus - Dumbbell is inserted into the dog's open mouth - End negative stimulus immediately.
The dog quickly learns that gripping the dumbbell stops or prevents the negative stimulus. Novice handlers run into two problems when teaching the forced retrieve they either hold back from the correct level of negative stimulus and/or they fall short on the absolute timing that is necessary for the right lesson to be learned. A forced retrieve is not punishment. It is teaching.
A forced retrieve is still comprised of segmented behaviors that eventually are strung together, same as a drive based retrieve. The primary difference is in the details. There are far fewer components to a forced retrieve hold, front and pick up. Because the stimulus, method of inducement, is very clear and consistent the dog has a much easier time learning the steps necessary for the exercise. You can indeed teach a forced retrieve in a matter of weeks.
I believe that when done correctly a forced retrieve has a higher success rate for a wider range of dogs and handlers then a drive based retrieve. And if your goal is reliable, high point retrieves you should teach the forced retrieve. Are there major errors to be made when teaching the forced retrieve? Yes of course, that is evident on most any trial field. But many errors are also made in teaching the sit in motion so why get scared now? I can not overemphasize that a forced retrieve, when taught correctly, makes perfect sense to your dog.
And I believe that when done correctly a drive based retrieve can have a high success rate for many dogs and handlers, although not as many as the forced retrieve. Nor can a drive based retrieve have the same reliability as a forced retrieve. Not because Fluffy doesn't feel like it but because the drive based method has a strong emphasis on the dog problem solving. When a dog problem solves he can, and will, make the wrong decisions. It can, and will, happen in trial.
Winning the Nationals is about the dog following instruction correctly, period. It is not about the dog being an equal partner and co-driver. A winning competition dog does not think they do. Any illusions otherwise should be dispelled immediately. A dog taught on a drive based method is not necessarily the happier dog. The dog taught on a forced retrieve method understands his instructions and his job and knows doing correct work gets him what he wants. This is what makes a dog happy, understanding his job.
I will attempt to outline the steps and processes for teaching both the drive based retrieve and the forced retrieve methods in upcoming issues. To the readers I request an open mind, a patient eye and full understanding that to write about a training method requires generalizations and oversimplifications. Although I do my best to include problem solving and common issues, I have no option but to write about one type of dog and one type of handler. This is probably not your dog or you as a handler. Absolutely regardless of teaching method, everyone should request an experienced person help them teach the retrieve. Nearly half your points are earned in the retrieve, to try and figure it out on your own is not a path to success.
