Within this series of articles I have been covering the beginning
work relative to raising a competitive working dog. The goal of our foundation
work is to raise a dog that is strong and confident, active in his drives
and highly motivated. In the previous issues I related an overview on the
type of temperament we search for in a puppy, the genetic background the
puppy should ideally possess, an overall opinion on how the puppy should
be raised and socialized, motivation of drives, teaching the sit and platz
commands. In this article we will begin teaching the recall to our young
dog.
In Schutzhund obedience the recall is seen once in SchH1 and SchH2,
twice in SchH3. The underlying principles of the recall can also be seen
in the retrieves as well as the blind search in protection. Correct execution
of the recall in obedience is the dog returning when called to the handler
directly and as quickly as possible. The front position shown by the dog
on return to the handler is a related segment of the recall. But it is taught
away from the recall and should not be a regular component of training the
recall. From the perspective of points in obedience, if given the option
of a fast but crooked recall or a slow but straight recall - the higher points
will go to the faster recall. Straightness in the positions demonstrates
a finished routine. Speed shows drive. In Schutzhund drive is rewarded more
than correctness.
We will teach the recall using the same principles outlined in earlier
articles. These methods work best on puppies, but can be used to start an
older dog or retrain one. If the goal is to retrain the recall, the command
will have to be changed. Either change to a different word or simply a different
pronunciation of the word.
There are three simple rules that must be followed using this technique.
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The recall command used should be 'hier'; the command should be said
in a happy, upbeat voice. The command should be drawn out a little, almost
into two syllables.
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The hier command is given ONLY if and when you have food on your
person, for six weeks.
-
There is never a negative reaction from the handler in conjunction
with the hier command.
The hier command can be used from the first day you bring puppy home.
Get into the habit of keeping a few small dry treats in your pockets, or
spread around the house. When puppy begins to explore away from you, simply
call hier, with enthusiasm. Puppy puppy hier or hier puppy puppy works well
in the beginning. When the pup turns to look at you, be happy and excited
and call hier again. When the puppy comes to you reward him with a treat
or two and lots of praise.
As the puppy gets older and explores farther, keep using the hier
command. Begin only using the command in the house. Try to not use the command
more than three or four times a day. It isn't necessary to do any more and
you want the command to be special. The command can also be used when you
move around the house and the pup doesn't follow you right away. Remember
Rule #2 - always have food on you before using this command. Every time you
use hier, the pup should be rewarded with food and praise. The dog does not
need to come to a formal front, they can stand or sit, be straight or crooked.
It isn't extremely important. An immediate, fast and upbeat response to the
command is our main focus. If the handler monkeys around too much when the
dog has come, it will deflate all the drive and enthusiasm out of the command.
As the dog gets older start using the command in the yard and other
places. For six weeks every time the hier command is given, the dog is rewarded
with food and praise. Gradually through that period of time you will be able
to call hier with more and more distractions and attractions going on. Teaching
this way sets the dog up for a fast, enthusiastic response to the command.
From time to time, you will have to compete with something more distracting
to the dog than you thought. Simply get the dog's attention either by movement
or calling his name, when he looks at you call hier immediately. Remaining
upbeat and happy with his response.
At this point it becomes important to point out two secrets of dog
handling. First all handlers should learn to be a little Jekyll/Hyde. Regardless
of what the dog was doing before you got his attention, regardless of how
frustrated you may be with that insolent pup it is very important to become
immediately, obviously, excited when you do get your dog's attention. And
it is of the utmost importance that the handler never uses the "hier" command
when in a negative frame of mind. Fake it if you have to. Second, there is
a force in the canine world called 'dog physics'. In the rules of dog physics,
to get a dog to move away from you - move towards them. To get them to move
closer - move away. This rule is most strong at the 6-9 month development
stage, usually at a distance of 5 feet or greater. I will refrain from scientific
principles supporting dog physics, though any one that has tried to catch
a stray dog will agree with the rule.
After six weeks, we use food only every other time with the command.
Several weeks later, change it to every third or fourth time. Slowly you
wean off the food reward, but keep the praise and excitement level high when
the dog responds correctly.
Two possible situations can occur at this point in our training.
When a dog is around 6-9 months old, their hormonal state of mind can become
more important than their bond to you. Be patient through this growing stage
and revert back to food more frequently. The other situation occurred once
when I raised a Shepherd puppy for someone. I go for long walks with my dogs
and use the hier command during that time. The dogs are off leash, cruising
around. If they get too far ahead I call hier, keeping them closer and
reinforcing the command. The typical Rottweiler response to this technique
is to never leave my side. The Shepherd puppy had a different perspective
and response. She would actually run away from me, stop and wait to be called
back. Following the same principles as outlined in previous articles we do
not reward dogs for manipulation. Simple observation showed that the Shepherd
was purposefully leaving, waiting for the recall and food reward. The solution
to this problem was very simple, I didn't call her back. She would try the
trick a few times then give up. As soon as she had given up on her nifty
idea, I'd call her and reward for the response to the command.
Some time after 6 months of age, our dogs should be going to club
training on a regular basis. For socialization, training out of the yard,
etc. At this point we can change our recall training to a new level. With
someone else holding the dog on leash, the handler should tease the dog with
a tug toy of some kind.
When the dog is hyped up, the handler runs a short distance away
and calls the dog hier. On the command, the leash is dropped, the dog comes
running towards the handler.
The handler should move slowly backwards as the dog comes, encouraging
a fast pace. Show the tug toy to the dog and allow them to come into the
toy for a grip.
