Raising the Sport Dog Series

-The Left About Turn-

by Angeli Modjeski

Within this series of articles I have been covering the beginning work relative to raising a competitive working dog. The goal of our foundation work is to raise a dog that is strong and confident, active in his drives and highly motivated.

In Schutzhund a left about turn is performed in the heeling exercises. There are four each in SchH1 and SchH2, two in SchH3. The left about turn is seen at the top of the heeling pattern and again at the top of the "J" hook, after the second right turn. Simply as comparison, a right about turn is done in AKC obedience, in IPO there is a left about turn option that is also now allowed in Schutzhund. This article will deal only with the traditional Schutzhund left about turn.

A correctly executed left about turn shows the handler making an about face, turning left in a pivot, while the dog turns right. The dog should come around as fast and tight as possible, yet end up in correct heel position as the handler and dog move back down the field. There are two keys to such a performance, teaching the left about correctly and the handler performing the turn correctly for the dog.

The left about turn is taught towards the end of the dog's foundation training. After the bulk of the heeling is in place, but prior to teaching the finish. While right about turns are useful in training to proof heel position, left about turns are nothing more than an exercise to be performed. The initial teaching is quite simple and basic. We will spend more time going over ways to improve upon the initial teaching.

Simple and Basic

Begin with the dog in active heel position, on leash or off does not matter. Use either the toy or food, whichever you've been using for heeling. Heeling in a straight line forward, slightly slower than usual, begin to pivot to your left. As you do so move the toy/food from your left hand to your right hand. The dog should follow the toy/food to your right hand. As you pivot around switch the toy/food again behind your back, from the right hand to the left hand. You should be facing the opposite direction once the toy/food returns to your left hand, the dog should be back on your left side. Reward the dog immediately.




A command is not necessary for this exercise and often confuses the dog. The body motion, the toy/food moving, the handler pivoting, all are cues more easily understood by dogs than verbal commands. Some people really get into the footwork of the left about turn. Some people do some funky footwork out there as well. It's been my experience that thinking about it as little as possible is best. You will turn how you need to turn. As you progress in teaching you will adjust to meet the needs of your dog. This can't be predicted until you get there. So don't sweat the dance steps at this point.

Problem Solving

The first part was easy. Possibly the easiest exercise to teach. Why then do so many lose points on these turns? Similar to teaching front position, I believe the exercise can become repetitive to the dog, and an emphasis is often put on compulsion to attain speed. Compulsion has a place and time and is an integral part of training. I believe there are better options than straight compulsion for the most common problems in the left about turn.

The number one problem is the dog gets "lost" behind the handler. They come around slowly. Some dogs can't physically turn as tight and fast as other dogs. The handler should evaluate their turning speed in relation to the dog. If the handler turns a little slower, is the dog able to come around at the same time?

If the issue is not just in timing, then drive building is required to get the dog around faster. To do this the handler should perform the left about as normal, but as soon as the handler is completely around they take off running straight ahead. Encouraging the dog to give chase with the voice or toy is okay. Once the dog catches the handler, there should be a distinct break for simple play and excitement. At minimum the handler should take off running for every three out of four left about turns. Do it three times, then do the fourth normal and determine if there is progress.



The second most common problem is the dog comes around wide, remaining wide into the straight line heeling. For this issue, the handler should perform the left about as normal, but as soon as the handler is completely around they take a hard right turn. The hard right turn should be done at a much faster pace than the left about, running hard to the right is okay similar to the above example. The dog should be rewarded when he catches the handler at this point. In addition the handler can perform the left about as normal, complete the turn and immediately follow it with a right about turn. Now we're getting into some fancy footwork! Same suggestions as previously, do three in a row like this, then one normal and determine if there is progress.

The third most common problem is the dog coming out ahead of heel position, forging. Although the handler's turning speed should be evaluated here as well, often this type of dog can turn very fast and enjoys it. If the handler tries to turn faster, usually the dog also speeds up. The solution to this issue is the handler performs the left about turn as normal, but as soon as the handler is completely around they should immediately halt. The dog should at first be blocked if they breeze by the halt. Subsequent to the blocking, the dog should be corrected for not performing the halt. The correction here is different than a correction to increase speed. In this solution, the dog is corrected for making a mistake for something they should truly know, not being in heel position for the halt. This type of dog requires a little drop in drive as well so he can think about his performance.

Conclusion

Initially in the first two solutions the dog is rewarded each time. Once that concept takes root in his head, the reward should be withheld for correct work only. In the first two solutions the handler should remain happy and upbeat - but no reward, no toy no food. Perform the solution three times as suggested, on the fourth normal about turn if the dog does it noticeably better or perfect that's when he gets his reward. Likewise on the third solution, perform the solution three times as suggested, on the fourth normal about turn if the dog is in correct heel position moving straight out of the turn he should be rewarded

Initially always show the dog a reason to work hard, pay attention and encourage position and speed. But ultimately the reward must come only when the exercise is performed correctly and not because of or due to inducing solutions. Without that concept, the dog will never understand what they must do to earn their reward. Please read this point again, it is the main problem in most people's obedience work.

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